Movies in India

I haven't been unaware of the fact, since we moved to India, that Indians are mad about movies. Bollywood surrounds us here in Bandra and the newspaper seems to devote as many inches to the habits of Indian superstars as to any other news. Last Sunday, however, was the first time Lucienne and I ventured out to an actual movie theater to see the film, Despicable Me. So what's different about seeing movies in India you ask? Well, from the time I stepped up to the ticket counter, I felt like a fish out of water. I asked for two matinee tickets for the movie, to which the man slumped in his chair tells me is sold out. I reply, "Sold out! The movie has been out for weeks!" He explains that I needed to order my tickets in advance, by phone and a man would deliver the tickets to my house. I could do this the day before. Wow, you can get EVERYTHING delivered! I returned to the car and our driver, Raju, wasn't going to give up so easily. There are movie theaters every few miles it seems in this city so we will find another showing that is not sold out. We drive a bit up the road to the Fun Theater (I was a little hesitant when I heard the name) and I got out to ask if tickets were available. Yes! Indeed there were. I thought this would be a simple exchange of cash for tickets, but before she printed them she pushes a map of the theater at me and says, "Which seats would you like?" Confused, I told her any were fine. So now we have our assigned seats for the film and enter the theater. I am really looking forward to some popcorn at this point. Looking around, I see the word "Corn", but no "Pop" in front of it. The sign reads, "American Corn". Well, maybe this is what they call popcorn here. To my surprise, the man dips a spoon into a metal drum and scoops out steaming corn. I have a variety of choices to flavor it with, Lime and Chile, Masala, etc. Hummm. Now, I corral Lu and move her over to our theater, thinking that once we are inside, I should recognize this as a trip to the movies or at least a bizarro version. I notice everyone is seated from the back row up and no seats are left vacant in-between. Now, this wasn't a sold out show and is a huge theater so the 10 or 12 rows closest to the screen are empty! The movie starts, but first we must stand for the National Anthem. The entire room stands and you could hear a pin drop. The anthem commences accompanied by a video of the military guards in the Himalaya on the borders of Pakistan and China. Standing at attention in the driving snow they salute the Indian flag. All the while, Lu is yelling at me, "Mama this isn't Despicable Me!" Please can this movie start?! Thank god it does and I sigh in relief when I hear dialogue in English.

How Buying a Car is Different in India

If buying our new Mahindra Xylo isn't exciting enough, there is a whole series of 'Pujas' or blessings that go along with the experience, not to mention a dance of negotiation which reminds you that rupees are the all powerful god in this city. Two weekends ago when we visited the Mahindra showroom in a faraway part of Mumbai called Thane (another elephant sighting on the way), we chose our new Xylo E6 and said we want to pay cash. This deal was sealed with a tika for each of us - a line of red dust for Kevin and a dot of red and saffron dust for me (married woman) and a red dot for Lu.

It is at this point the negotations started. We had our Rs. 8 lakh to hand over to them, but the bartering comes with when we will actually get the car. Sachin, the Mahindra representative had been making promises about when we would have the car in our hands; "Tomorrow sir, tomorrow" to no avail. Apparently with red tape-read corruption of the system, it can take months to receive a new car. Sachin was just telling us what we wanted to hear with the hopes of us handing over the payment for the car and then the ball was in his court. Kevin met with the car people and the general operations manager from our school, Alok (who was giving us the money) for some India style business dealing. Alok told Sachin that the deal was off unless the car was delivered by 6:30pm on Thursday which was 2 days away. Sachin pleaded that this was impossible, but Alok said make it happen. Mahindra is eager to break into the American market and Alok reminded Sachin that you have two Americans here that want to buy your car so you better make them happy. Well, luckily for Sachin, the only way things happen here is by the contact you have-read pay offs and with an inexhaustible supply of labor. I don't know if he had a guy sleeping all night at the licensing office, but at 6:30 Thursday, on the nose, our black and silver 2009 Mahindra Xylo E6 arrived at our building.

Sachin entered with gifts; flowers for me, chocolates for Lu and a holy idol for Kevin-in our case a rosary, and lots of photos, smiles and handshaking. The next day, we got word through Raju (our driver) that Sachin had taken ill. I guess the stress had gotten to him. This is when we realized that we didn't in fact have license plates for the car, but only a piece of yellow tape with some numbers written on them; Sachin is indisposed.

Well, at least Raju was undeterred. He spent the next day fussing over the new car with garlands of marigolds, blessing and peda sweets (a type of milk fudge that tastes similar to marzipan) for everyone to help welcome the car and ensure he doesn't wreak it. He told us, "people flocked around the car like she is a princess!" I think he's pretty happy. So are we.

Goa

Gandhi's birthday holiday allowed us to get away for a three day weekend to Goa. It's an hour plane ride away and a world away from Mumbai. Goa is very rural and lightly populated by Indian standards. It's very Catholic as well thanks to several hundred years of Portuguese colonialism (they were 'liberated' in 1961). Our plans to lie by the pool all day were dashed by late season monsoon rains. Two days we were holed up in our luxurious room at the Leela Kempinski. Now I know why we got a deal on the lagoon suite!

When Lucienne with us it's like traveling with a celebrity. Every day no less than 5 requests to have a picture taken with her or of her were made. Even at breakfast Sunday morning she received a marriage proposal from an admiring mother of a one year old-in India arranged marriages are alive and well. Lulu did grow tired of all the attention and started to run the other direction when she saw a camera raised. The girl has gotten pretty crafty in her two and a half years. We hired a babysitter on Saturday night so we could enjoy an unencumbered dinner. When we retuned to the room at 9pm the woman told us that Lu had shut her in the closet and told her to "stay there!", then proceeded to unlock and head out the front door. Luckily for her (and us), the chain was on the door. I think we'll have to screen babysitters more closely in the future!

The weekend wasn't a total washout. We did have a bright, sunny Sunday to play on the beach and splash about in the pool.

Eid ul-fitr

Yet another holiday has arrived here in Mumbai. This one is reserved for the Muslims of the city; Eid ul-fitr marks the end of the month of fasting called Ramadan. The owners of our apartment building, the Khans are Muslim so I've been informed they will be sacrificing a goat in the basement tonight. Nice. All weekend workers constructed a bamboo canopy in the rear of the building for the big party the Khans are throwing. I'm hoping the Muslims aren't partial to fireworks and marching bands like the Hindus, else we'll be up all night again.

Dasara is about to begin

We are on the eve of our third Hindu festival complete with more drumming and parading of idols. This is Dasara [Dussehra] or Navaratri when the goddess Durga arrives astride her tiger to much fanfare and is venerated for nine nights. Each day is designated for each of the various "sisters" or manifestations of Durga which she transformed while fighting a demon-king who claimed no man could kill him. Well the goddess did the deed ridding the land of the evil menace. This period is also a time to celebrate Lord Rama's defeat of the demon-king Ravana. At the end of the festival giant paper mache figures of Ravana are burned in effigy do the cheers of the crowd and dancers wield dandiya sticks.

Saturday is Hanuman's Day

Each Saturday Hindus in Mumbai mumble their wishes into the ear of the monkey god Hanuman in hopes that they will come true. The poor line up outside temples like the Bell Temple near our apartment and receive alms from the faithful. Cows are also treated to a handful of grass for a few rupees; the kindness meant to ensure Hanuman is in a charitable mood. Also to ward off the evil eye, venders sell 5 chilis and a lime threaded with string to hang from the bumper of your car or the handlebars of your motorbike.

Lightening never strikes twice?

Not that life isn't crazy enough in Mumbai, but to make sure there's never a dull moment the gods decided to rock our apartment building with a bolt of lightening. It was during an particularly torrential monsoon season afternoon. A river of water, garbage, etc. was washing down our street and flashes of lightening filled the sky. Lucienne and I were heading up to a mall in Goregon in the north and Kevin was home playing around on our new 24" iMac. The direct hit blew our new air port, Luckily our iMac sustained no damage. Others in our building weren't so lucky... the surge damaged TVs and computers.